Filet mignon with mac and cheese and green beans are shown in this undated photo at Cattlemen’s Roadhouse in Cross Lanes.
STEVEN KEITH | For the Gazette-Mail
The new Cattlemen’s Roadhouse in Cross Lanes opened in mid-February to mixed reviews, with some folks praising it as the best meal around while others reported long waits, poor service and mediocre food.
I wasn’t surprised to hear fairly common reactions to most new restaurant openings. That’s why I usually wait at least a month after a place opens before visiting to see how its service and food evolve over time. Are they able to work the kinks out, or are there larger problems at play?
With nearly two months under their belt, Cattlemen’s still has work to do. My first visit this past week was marked by a baffling void in service, some food I couldn’t eat and the staff not willing to do anything to make the situation better.
Based on that experience, I’ll definitely steer clear for a while.
When I popped in for dinner on a slow weeknight, I was greeted with a smile and was impressed by a much-larger-than-expected menu offering a selection of steaks, ribs, pork, seafood, chicken, burgers, sandwiches, soups, salads, appetizers and desserts — more than 75 items in all.
It was going to take a while to look it all over, so I ordered a drink to pass the time. I almost stuck with a beer to be safe but the muddled Old Fashioned I settled on wasn’t bad.
For dinner, I was tempted to try the meatloaf, fire-grilled salmon or smothered chicken, but a restaurant’s food should be judged based on what they’re most known for. For Cattlemen’s, that means steaks with hearty sides. So I ordered a small salad and the filet mignon with sauteed mushrooms on top and mac and cheese with green beans on the side.
Yeasty rolls with butter are shown in this undated photo at Cattlemen's Roadhouse in Cross Lanes.
STEVEN KEITH | For the Gazette-Mail
A basket of yeasty rolls with butter and cinnamon butter came out quickly and looked great when they arrived. Warm, soft and pillowy inside — but they had an odd, off taste. I couldn’t discern what it was, but it was not pleasant to my palate. That was unfortunate, because that would be the only food I would have for some time.
Although the restaurant was barely half full and there were plenty of servers standing around, table after table around me were served their apps, entrees and desserts while I was still waiting on … a simple salad. It finally came after my meal, but it did feature lots of fresh ingredients, which was a plus
When my meal finally arrived, the only item I enjoyed was “Momma’s Green Beans,†which were savory, salty, stewed and delicious. The mac and cheese was gummy, with a raw flour aftertaste, and my steak was considerably underseasoned and undercooked. I had asked for medium-rare, but it was bright red and cold inside, not warm and pink.
Sadly, when I pointed the raw steak out to my server and told her I couldn’t eat it, the only thing she did was say she’d let the cook know. No offer to refire it, or bring me something else, or deduct it from my bill, she simply asked if I was ready for dessert. So I was out $40 for a steak I didn’t get to enjoy.
Offering to make a problem right is Customer Service 101, folks, and Cattlemen’s failed miserably in this case. For me, that’s a hard mistake to overlook.
I applaud these local business owners for investing in our community and I truly wish them the best. I also know they may lasso a loyal following over time and I certainly hope they do. But my first visit left a bad taste in my mouth — literally and figuratively — that makes it unlikely I’ll go back.